
The Super Bowl is this Sunday night, in case you wondered. New England is playing Seattle. And that is the extent of my sports update. Otherwise, I am all about the snacks, and Bad Bunny. Oh, and the commercials.
This week we are bringing all the hot, cheesy joy of our Friday Night Pizza to Super Bowl ™ Sunday. There is almost nothing that can’t be improved by snacks. Think of the solace brought by a big, fresh bag of Nacho Cheese Doritos. Stashed in our freezer, along with last week’s is a Tupperware container of pigs-in-blankets. Life can come at you fast, and having a stash of hot, fatty snacks can soften the harsh blows. Imagine the miracles that pizza can invoke!
Our homemade pizza has become a ritual, first with the dough, then with the prep, and finally the consumption: hot, runny cheese meets crispy, chewy crust. We started slowly, initially making dough from a recipe in The Joy of Cooking, of all places, but those were the dark days before the internet, and Joy was my first resource. I still have photos of us, covered in flour, because the children were young, and kneading was an all-hands-on-deck proposition when you are trying to get children interested in their food. There are always math, geometry, and art lessons to be had when making pizza. Eventually they tired of the dough-making process, and I would make it myself in the morning. For a while they seemingly enjoyed the process of rolling out the dough, and adding the sauce and cheese, and finally, eating. It became the established Friday night family ritual. Our dough, which has been evolving for years, is now a variation on a Mark Bittman Recipe
A game changer (look – a sports metaphor!) is that we have been using a “00” flour, as suggested by my brother, the original family pizzaiolo, who still regularly eats in New Haven pizzerias, and who bakes a quality pie. This flour has made a huge difference in the texture of the crust – it is lighter, and more flavorful, and bakes into an excellent crisp, springy crust. For long time, the only place I could find it was from King Arthur Flour website or Amazon, but now, the grocery store is carrying it. It is the amazing miracle of supply and demand! King Arthur 00 Flour For the formative years, though, we used all-purpose flour or bread flour, and made perfectly fine pizzas. We are just showing off now.
Our take on pizza dough:
3 cups “00” flour
1 tablespoon yeast (I have been buying yeast in jars, because I am extremely cheap)
2 teaspoons kosher salt
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup warm water (I warm it in a teapot that has a thermometer – to about 120°F – any warmer and you will kill the yeast)
I use the fancy KitchenAid stand mixer, which would probably offend New Haven Sally’s soul, but the romance of kneading it by hand wore off decades ago. I mix all the dry ingredients, then add the oil, and finally the cup of water. Sometimes I have to add a little more water, until the shaggy mess forms a dough ball. I take the ball of dough out and roll it around on the counter, just to tidy up the ball. I put it in a mixing bowl, with a drizzle of olive oil, and cover the bowl with Saran Wrap, and pop it into the safety of the microwave for a day of rest. The microwave is a good place; the dough is off of the counter, and the temperature stays constant. By around 6 o’clock, it has risen nicely, and is ready for transformation.
When we first started making pizza at home we had a standard-issue builder’s basic electric oven. Now we have a slightly fancier gas oven. First we pop a pizza stone into the oven, and pre-heat it to 525°F. Once the temperature reaches 525°, we set a timer for 30 minutes, so the stone heats through and through. We don’t have a coal-fired oven like Sally’s, but we can pretend. We started off using a Nordic Ware baking sheet, then graduated to a round pizza pan. We have had years of experimenting, which has led to lots of esoteric equipment: a metal pizza peel, a French rolling pin, the pizza stone, a stainless steel bench scraper, a squeeze bottle for Extra Virgin Olive Oil, and a gigantic pizza cutter.
While the oven is heating, we grate the mozzarella ourselves, of course, for extra cheesy stretchiness. Sometimes we use fresh mozzarella, but the fresh cheese contains a lot of moisture, which can make for a weighty, soggy pizza – so use judiciously. We also grate Parmesan cheese with abandon – veritable snow drifts of cream-colored cheese float through the kitchen.
I like pepperoni pizza best, but Mr. Sanders is a bon vivant who likes sausage, meatball, salami, Prosciutto, ham, speck, kale, broccolini, peppers – you name it. No pineapple, though. We stockpile jars of Rao’s Pizza Sauce when it is on sale. But leftover homemade spaghetti sauce is also a family fave. Use what makes you happy.
On a floured surface, divide the dough in half. We freeze one half, for emergency mid-week pan pizza, or garlic knots. Then Mr. Sanders stretches the pizza dough. (It took years to achieve a circle shape, so do not despair if you produce tasty amoebas.) We have never been able to toss flying discs of dough, sadly. Don’t forget to scatter a handful of corn meal onto the peel first. (The only way to transfer a gooey uncooked pizza to a hot pizza stone is with a peel.)
Once the dough is safely on the pizza peel, Mr. Sanders squirts a couple of tablespoons of garlic-infused olive oil onto the dough, and spreads it around with the back of a spoon. A gentle reader suggested the garlic-infusion because the house becomes redolent with garlic: nothing says “home-made pizza” more effectively than walking through an aromatic wall of garlic.
Then Mr. Sanders spoons on some sauce, not lots, because you want the pie to stay light and crisp. Then he scatters the mozzarella cheese, and judiciously arranges the toppings. You should stop by a pizza joint, not a fancy place, and watch how the skilled pizzaiola guys scatter the cheese and toppings as you munch your slice of pizza. They are fast, spare, and economical. Less is better.
If you want to skip all the homemade faff, feel free to buy some dough, and make your own variations. Trader Joe’s has a decent frozen dough. You local pizzeria probably sells dough. And then you can pile on the good stuff. I found this Jalapeño Pepper Pizza Bites recipe on Instagram.
Slide the pizza from the peel onto the blazing hot pizza stone. This takes some practice. Set a timer for 8 minutes. Then get ready for Bad Bunny’s halftime show. It should be a lot of fun. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFKLTYwS9Fg
“But magic is like pizza: even when it’s bad it’s pretty good.”
—Neil Patrick Harris
Jean Dixon Sanders has been a painter and graphic designer for the past thirty years. A graduate of Washington College, where she majored in fine art, Jean started her work in design with the Literary House lecture program. The illustrations she contributes to the Spies are done with watercolor, colored pencil and ink.












