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October 29, 2025

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Arts Looking at the Masters Spy Journal

Looking at the Masters: Charles Burchfield in Autumn

October 23, 2025 by Beverly Hall Smith Leave a Comment

Charles Burchfield (1893-1967), born in Ashtabula, Ohio, has been associated with American Modernism, but this category does not begin to capture the scope of his watercolor paintings. They are in the collections of more than 100 museums in America and Europe. He was a visionary whose love of nature in every season, time of day, and condition inspired his unique paintings. Autumn is upon us, and Burchfield shares his response to the season through his watercolors and journal entries.

“Autumnal Wind and Rain’’ (1915)

Burchfield began his journal in junior high school. He was determined to record all the flowering plants in Salem, Ohio, where he grew up. “Autumnal Wind and Rain’’ (1915) (14’’x20’’) (watercolor) is an early work that concentrates on the shapes of leaves blowing in the wind. White streaks are painted across the leaves. The viewer might think at first the white streaks are a depiction of rain. However, the hazy yellow sky in the background gives no indication of a storm. A simple compositional device, two green spots of paint in the foreground anchor the image, and the red paint at the right also holds the composition steady. The group of light gray towers to the right suggest a town beyond the trees. Another area of light gray painted in the middle ground also suggests the presence of a building with two windows. This early painting is simple, subtle, and effective. In a journal entry dated October 21, 1914, Burchfield commented on the piece: ‘’The third of wonderfully fair October days.  My heart seems ever on the point of bursting with the beauty of this autumn.  It is a golden age. All my thoughts seemed touched with the golden atmosphere.” In 1915, he wrote, “My diary seems to be a journal of the wind, sunshine and sky.” He was “gathering the materials for a lifetime.” 

Burchfield did not write about the influence of other artists on his style; however, in “Autumnal Wind and Rain’’ and other early works there is an oriental tendency. He worked as a guard at the Hatch Galleries in Cleveland in 1914. He saw an exhibition of Chinese scroll paintings. He wrote that he would “execute, in a continuous form, the transitions or sequence of weather events in a day, or several days or seasons.” These he called “all-day sketches” and there is a sense of sequence to the painting of the leaves. 

Burchfield graduated from the Cleveland Institute of Art in 1916, and he received a scholarship to attend the prestigious National Academy of Design in New York City. After just one day in a life drawing class, he left. In his early work, he had developed his own watercolor technique using washes, black ink for opaque areas, and white gouache, not acceptable in traditional watercolor. He used dry-brush watercolor on paper that stoop upright like a canvas on an easel. His unique technique would continue, but his subject matter broadened to include architecture.  Burchfield served in the army, applying his painting skills to camouflage tanks and artificial hills. He was honorably discharged in 1919. 

Burchfield married Berthe Kenreich in 1922. They had five children. The family moved to the rural neighborhood of Gardenville in West Seneca near Buffalo, New York. He was represented in 1928 by the Frank Rehn Gallery in New York City. Edward Hopper, Reginald March, and Bradley Tomlin also were represented by the Gallery. From 1928 onward, he was able to support his family by making art. The Museum of Modern Art exhibited his watercolors in 1935. In that same year his work was included in the International Exhibition of Paintings at the Carnegie Institute in Pittsburgh. Also in 1935, Life Magazine named him one of the ten most important American painters.

“Wind Scattered Leaves” (1944)

As Burchfield’s paintings developed, he added a wider landscape that included nature in all its moods. “Wind Scattered Leaves” (1944) (20”x25’’) is a depiction of autumn. Orange and yellow leaves are spread below the trees. Fields in the distance transition from bright greens to dusty brown and other pale colors. Evergreens provide contrast with the black trunk of a nearby tree in the foreground. Farther off, a dull gray-green and tan bush, still holding its leaves, is a reminder that winter approaches. Some of the black leaves higher in the sky could double as crows. Some of the leaves in the right foreground are painted with sharp brush points to depict the dryness of the season. Burchfield noted, “Most of the leaves are down, dried & pale-yellow brown but here & there some glowing red ones. A puff of wind scattered the leaves along the surface and they caught the sunlight with little halos around them.”

“Wind Scattered Leaves” (1944) (detail)

A look at the application of the paint in “Wind Scattered Leaves” reveals Burchfield’s technique of overlapping brush-strokes of color. The energy can be seen. He was a master of watercolor, considered to be the most difficult of medium. 

“Autumnal Fantasy” (1944)

 

“Autumnal Fantasy” (1944) (37”x53”) displays another aspect of Burchfield’s painting. From the beginning his fascination with nature and with Transcendentalism, developed in New England in c.1836 and promoted by authors Henry David Thoreau and Ralph Waldo Emerson, among others. Burchfield held the belief that God and nature are the same, and through intuition, emotion rather than reason, and being in nature the individual can experience the divine.  In the painting, repeating and swirling lines of paint are used the depict earth and water. Tree bark is painted with distinct and detailed patterns. 

The sunlight is painted with a mystical golden glow. The sounds of bugs and birds in the woods are created by rows of black semi-circles coming from various parts of the woods. Burchfield wants viewers to experience all of the senses–sight, sound, taste, smell, and touch–as he does.  At the end of his life, he asked, “Will I ever truly be able to express the elemental power & beauty of God’s woods?”

“Autumn Storm” (1948)

 

In “Autumn Storm” (1948) (26’’x40”), Burchfield captured another of nature’s moods, with dark clouds of a coming storm. The clouds cast the earth beneath them in darkness. The skeletal trees bend in the wind, and the dry grasses seem to quiver as the storm approaches. Burchfield’s journal reports many such experiences: “I spent some time wandering around in the woods trying to find just the right spot to carry out my idea, which has obsessed [me] for some time (the lynx woods giving the feeling of the coming of winter into the glory of autumn).” (October 17,1956) Later, he wrote, “In the north, gigantic thunderstorms were slowly moving eastward, constantly swelling upward and changing form–breath-taking sight, with such pure white tops, and never getting much darker…” (September 1, 1962) 

Burchfield was elected in 1954 to the National Academy of Design in New York. The prestigious honorary association was organized “to promote the fine arts in America through instruction and exhibition.”. He also was elected in 1958 to the American Academy of Arts and Letters, and received a gold medal in an exhibition in 1960. During that period, he began to experience problems with his health: rheumatoid arthritis in 1955 and a heart attack in 1963.

“October Outside” (1963)

Burchfield painted “October Outside” (1963) (39”x27’’) indoors. He continued to paint no matter his health. The viewer sees a well-weathered wood door with several decorative panels and a glass window. The outdoor scene is reflected in the window. The pickets of the fence cast green shadows across the lawn. A green pot is set on a plant stand. The black tree trunk is topped with orange, red, and yellow leaves. Burchfield suffered a fatal heart attack in 1967. He was in the yard of his home, working on a painting to be titled “Early Spring.”

The Charles Burchfield Center at Buffalo State College was dedicated to the artist in 1966. It was renamed The Burchfield Art Center in 1983 with a mission to support various artistic pursuits.  It became the Burchfield Penney Art Center between 1991 and 1994, when Charles Rand Penney donated 1,300 works by New York artists, including 183 by Burchfield. A 29-acre art and nature complex in West Seneca, New York, was named for Burchfield in 1992. 

Near the end of his life, Burchfield expressed the sentiment, “How slowly the ‘secrets’ of my art come to me.” 


Beverly Hall Smith was a professor of art history for 40 years. Since retiring to Chestertown with her husband Kurt in 2014, she has taught art history classes at WC-ALL and the Institute of Adult Learning, Centreville. An artist, she sometimes exhibits work at River Arts. She also paints sets for the Garfield Theater in Chestertown.

The Spy Newspapers may periodically employ the assistance of artificial intelligence (AI) to enhance the clarity and accuracy of our content.

Filed Under: Looking at the Masters, Spy Journal

Food Friday: Easy Bake

October 17, 2025 by Jean Sanders Leave a Comment

Now that the threat of the nor-easter has swept past us, and there are cooler, clearer days ahead, we seem able to prepare for autumn. I have a new copse of trees out my window – no more dramatic pecan orchard swinging its loose limbs with abandon. Instead I look out at tall, skinny birches and long-legged long-needled pines. Some of their leaves are turning yellow and gamboge as they glisten and sway with dappling light, shuffling cards and dancing in place. I don’t see many of the opportunistic squirrelly boys we had patrolling the orchard, but this weekend I did see a merry band of bluebirds, joyously celebrating their farewell tour. The changes are slow-moving as we wait for summer to finally depart, and for the cool breezes of fall to waft over our fevered brows.

It’s time to do some easy baking; baking that delivers deliciousness for our minimal investment of time (and skill). It’s time for focaccia. Which is sublime when hot from the oven. It is good warm, it freezes well, and can be eaten for any meal. It is deeply satisfying to bake something warm and oozing olive oil and garlic – without all the bother of sour dough starter maintenance that found its way onto every homebound COVID-19 survivor’s to-do list.

Focaccia can be mixed up after breakfast, and ignored until an hour before dinner. Or you can make the dough after watching the Slow Horses, letting it rise over night, to be put it in the oven the next day. Yet, if you are suddenly seized with the yen for warm, home-baked bread, you can start the dough at lunch and hurry it along through the afternoon, and start baking in time for cocktail hour.
The Practical Kitchen We spent this past week experimenting.

Years ago I found a mix for focaccia at our local IGA market and it was a revelation to someone who had grown up on Pepperidge Farm white bread, Levy’s Jewish rye bread and the occasional loaf of freshly baked Italian bread from the red sauce Italian restaurant my family frequented for celebrations. I wasn’t used to warm and crusty, fresh, yeasty bread. During my European interlude I experienced the standard American food epiphany upon discovering baguettes, brioche, pain perdu, naan, crumpets, scones, hot cross buns, challah, pita, ciabatta, and finally focaccia di Recco col formaggio. Translation: my unformed suburban brain was blown.

Moving to the south brought me a deep appreciation for the simplicity of the biscuit. Upon moving further south (though considering Florida “south” is often debated, volubly) we found a wonderful French bakery, and we worked our way through their inventory of baked daily epi breads, baguettes, pain aux chocolate, croissants, and brioche. Jim and Kim’s bakery on Flagler Street in Stuart was deliciously aromatic, and educational.

This week our first batch of homemade focaccia was wrong in so many ways. The pan I used was too small, so the dough rose to epic, cornbread-y heights. Focaccia is considered a flatbread, or a hearth bread, not a voluminous soufflé. I also relied on the recipe, instead of my experience, and merely coated the pan with olive oil. What I should have done was use a larger, shallower pan, (thank you, Food52 for the sheet pan suggestion) and line it first with parchment paper, and then generously coat the parchment paper with olive oil.

The second batch was better, and more attractive. I dotted the dimpled top with halved cherry tomatoes, and a scattering of Maldon salt, finely minced garlic, and fresh rosemary. You can also consider decorating with cheese, basil, or onion. To bask in the glow of the Mediterranean, you could add lemon slices and green olives. For a more abundantly flavored focaccia you could add Prosciutto, mushrooms, green onions, and arugula. If you’d like something sweeter, for a breakfast dish, consider honey, apples, raisins, raw sugar, orange peel or lemon zest.
I aspire to baking airy, crisp baguettes, and hope in time I will master some of the necessary skills. In the meantime, I am content to have spent a week learning about the simple goodness of focaccia. In these perilous times, it is good to ratchet down some of the anxiety with soothing oozy, warm, crunchy, garlicky goodness. And with the stash in the freezer, it is always close at hand.

Taste Atlas

Bon Appétit

Food52

These are easy – you can start after lunch and have tasty, fresh, piping hot focaccia for dinner. My favorite part was poking the little dimples into the dough after it has risen. And then artfully scattering the rosemary leaves, which I picked from the plant running wild in the container garden. (The rosemary plant has thrived outside even through the past two winters. It is an amazement to me.)

I just loved baking a version of focaccia in our trustworthy cast iron skillet. I’m adding it to the list of good foods that can be prepared in just one pan – always a plus in my book because most of the time I am the designated dishwasher. It was crispy and crusty and tasted divine dipped in a small saucer of olive oil and garlic, salt, pepper, dried oregano and basil. It is practically a meal unto itself. Add salad and wine, and if you are being really pesky, a protein. Mr. Sanders and I gobbled up half a pan, which left half a pan to go in the freezer, that we hauled out delightedly a few nights later. Food in the freezer = money in the bank and less prep time. More time to paint the back porch, or weed the lettuce bed, or watch the blue birds soar through the shimmering, pointillistic autumn leaves.

Skillet focaccia

“The smell of good bread baking, like the sound of lightly flowing water, is indescribable in its evocation of innocence and delight…”
—M.F.K. Fisher


Jean Dixon Sanders has been a painter and graphic designer for the past thirty years. A graduate of Washington College, where she majored in fine art, Jean started her work in design with the Literary House lecture program. The illustrations she contributes to the Spies are done with watercolor, colored pencil and ink.

The Spy Newspapers may periodically employ the assistance of artificial intelligence (AI) to enhance the clarity and accuracy of our content.

Filed Under: 1 Homepage Slider, Food Friday, Spy Journal

As the Supreme Court Term Begins… Some Reflections by Margaret Andersen

October 3, 2025 by Opinion Leave a Comment

As the U.S. Supreme Court begins its new term and at a time when public confidence in all national institutions, including the Supreme Court, is at an all-time low, I am heartened by remembering how one letter, sent long ago to Associate Justice Harry Blackmun, can remind us of the heart beneath a justice’s robe, even at a time when a justice was under vicious attack by political opponents. I am also reminded of what it can mean to bring joy to a justice’s chamber. And I am thinking about my long-gone dogs. 

I named my two dogs, who were abandoned as puppies by their owners, after Justices Thurgood Marshall and Harry Blackmun, two giants in judicial history. Thurgood Marshall, the first African American to serve on the Court (appointed in 1967), was touted for his long-standing commitment to civil rights, including early cases that prohibited racially restrictive real estate covenants. In another of his decisions, he invalidated the white primary, long a method by which southern Democrats maintained their political power. He is, though, best known for arguing the landmark case Brown vs the Board of Education before the Supreme Court in 1954.  A staunch advocate for people who had too long been denied legal protections in the United States, Marshall retired from the Court in 1991 and died in 1993. 

Likewise, Associate Justice Harry A. Blackmun left an indelible mark on U.S. judicial history. Appointed to the Court by President Richard Nixon in 1970, Blackmun’s early decisions on the Court were most aligned with conservative justices. Over time, however, his decisions became more in tune with those of more liberal justices. He was passionate in this support for abortion rights and defended affirmative action. Writing in the 1978 Regents of the University of California vs. Bakke decision, allowing some consideration of race in university admissions but disallowing racial quotas, Blackmun wrote, “In order to get beyond racism, we must first take account of race. There is no other way. And in order to treat some persons equally, we much treat them differently.” 

Blackmun’s support for abortion rights was unyielding. The very week we adopted our dogs (in 1989), Blackmun wrote a scathing dissent on the case Webster v. Reproductive Health Services, the first Supreme Court case to chip away at the constitutional right to abortion established in Roe v. Wade. In his dissent, Blackmun wrote, “For today, the women of this Nation still retain the liberty to control their destinies. But the signs are evident and very ominous, and a chill wind blows.” 

How prescient that dissent—one of the reasons I so admired Justice Blackmun. How did two photos of my dogs ended up in Harry Blackmun’s papers housed in the Library of Congress? 

Very few dogs find themselves memorialized in the Library of Congress. Dogs included famous people, such as TV host Ed Sullivan, singer Billie Holiday, actress Joan Caulfield, and actor Jimmy Durante mostly own those. Also included are some photos of national dog show winners. The Library of Congress is the largest library in the world, housing documents that tell the history of the United States by documenting and preserving some of the nation’s most important records. These are treasured archives, a repository of national civilization and creativity.

The Library of Congress hardly seems a place where ordinary neighborhood dogs would be seen. I am not a celebrity, nor a Washington insider, nor have my dogs ever been in a competitive dog show. Yet, sure enough, my dogs’ photographs are included in the hundreds of boxes that archive the work of Supreme Court Associate Justice Harry A. Blackmun: Box 1445, Folio #9.

When my husband and I took in these puppies, the house next door to us was a concrete block shack, owned by a notoriously obnoxious absentee landlord. The tenants, seemingly living on the margins of poverty, absconded in the middle of the night, probably owing back rent and fearful of the landlord’s well-known violent temper. Left behind were the mother dog and four newborn puppies. A reclusive neighbor who lived in the woods across the street took in the mother dog, but the puppies were left to fend for themselves. One poor pup was hit and killed in the road. A second pup was adopted by a neighbor’s friend. Left behind were two little black lab puppies.

Even before the tenants fled, the two puppies had been frisky, though largely ignored by their owners. The puppies liked scampering around on the riverbank, occasionally falling into the Chesapeake Bay where our house is located. My husband would jump in our rowboat, row to their rescue, drag them out of the water, and bring them back home. Later, they never seemed to like water—odd since they were mostly black labs, though not purebreds.  

When the dogs’ owners fled, we took in the two puppies, thinking we could find a home for them. We already had two cats and never intended to add dogs to our household, certainly not two of them! We tried to find people who would adopt the two puppies, preferably as a pair because they were brothers. We considered posting a “free puppies” sign at the local market but rejected that plan when we heard that puppies so publicly advertised might be picked up by an unscrupulous puppy mill operator. 

Once they were living on our porch, we became very attached. After a few weeks of trying to find a new home for them, we relented and decided to keep them. Like other dog owners, we tried to find fitting names for our newly adopted pups. It was 1989. The nation was emerging from the Reagan years—a time when many hard-fought civil rights were being retracted. George Bush Sr. was the President. Roe v. Wade had established the constitutional right to reproductive freedom in 1973, but the movement to overturn Roe was simmering. As someone who was teaching university courses on racial and gender inequality, I was keenly aware of the backlash against women and people of color that our nation was facing. 

I told my husband that, given the times, we had to name these two dogs for men who had done something good for women. I had long admired U.S. Supreme Court Associate Justice Thurgood Marshall, then retired from the Court. Our two dogs became Blackmun and Marshall.

I often thought about writing to the two justices about their namesakes, but life was busy and I didn’t do it until 1994. Moved by Blackmun’s announcement of his pending retirement, my husband and I drafted a letter to Justice Blackmun explaining why our dogs bore his and Thurgood Marshall’s names. The letter we sent, signed by my husband, included two pictures of the dogs together on our front lawn.

Our letter said:  

I didn’t really expect a response, but only a few days later, and much to our surprise, a letter on embossed Supreme Court stationery showed up in our mail! Written with wry humor, the grace of a gentleman, and with a subtle reminder of his positions on conception, Blackmun’s letter to us was hand-signed. 

We cherished that letter and our two amazing dogs, but life went on. Then, in 2004, things took an unexpected turn.

In honor of the fiftieth anniversary of the Brown v. Board court decision, the University of Illinois College of Law, like many academic institutions that year, sponsored a symposium about the impact of the Brown decision and invited me to present a paper. I gladly accepted and wrote an article on the implications of the Brown decision for different groups. I had presented many conference papers prior to this commemorative event. Still, I had never spoken at a law school or to a room packed with mostly law professors and other legal scholars. I am a sociologist. That is my usual audience. I was nervous and felt very out of my element. I knew no one on the featured panels and hardly anyone in the audience. But I knew my paper was solid, despite my anxiety about its reception. 

As I wrapped up my presentation, I thought it had gone well and considered adding that I had named my two dogs for the two justices I so admired. It seemed a little corny to bring up my dogs in such an esteemed and unaccustomed, for me, place, but oh well…I did it. The audience seemed to appreciate it. I sat down to a round of applause.

The next speaker was introduced as a law professor at Duke University. When she began her remarks, she expressed her appreciation for being with known colleagues and meeting new people…a common way speakers warm up their presentations. She then said, “And I am especially pleased to meet someone I have a special connection to…Maggie Andersen.” I was floored! I had never met her, did not follow her field of legal study, and could not imagine how she thought she knew me. She continued, “Years ago I was a clerk in Justice Blackmun’s chambers. One morning, he called all his clerks together because he had received a letter from ‘some professor in Maryland,’ and he wanted to share it with us. Treating his clerks to breakfast, he read the letter out loud.” She then said, directly to me, “You will never know how happy your letter made him!” She proceeded to deliver a very good analysis of the impact of the Brown decision on disability rights. 

As we sat at the symposium on Brown, the release of Blackmun’s papers to the Library of Congress was very much in the news. Blackmun had died five years earlier (in 1999) but had arranged for a quick release of his papers to the Library of Congress. His papers were released only five years after his death, which is unusual because most justices do not have their papers released until 50 years after their death. 

Because of the prominence of Blackmun’s papers in the daily news, I asked the former clerk if she thought our letter—and the photos of our dogs—would then be in the Library of Congress. She said, “No doubt! That’s how important your letter was to him.” As the session ended, she said she wanted to rush right out and call Justice Blackmun’s former secretary because she knew the secretary would be excited to know she had met me! 

I later learned, by reading Juan Williams’ excellent biography of Justice Blackmun, that at the time Blackmun received our letter, he was besieged by hate mail from those who strenuously objected to his more progressive opinions—particularly his defense of Roe. Our letter was a rare praise song!

Now, even more years later and with both dogs long gone, Blackmun’s fears have come to pass. More than a chill wind blows today. There is a full-blown hurricane toppling women’s rights, smashing civil rights, and crushing institutions themselves. The assault on reproductive rights is no longer directed at one man, but, rather, at entire institutions. Confidence in the judicial system, including the Supreme Court, has hit an all-time low, as has public faith in all national institutions. Even when under attack by the right, probably overwhelmed by case work, and fearful for women in America, Harry Blackmun found the time to pen a letter, honoring not only our dogs, but also the best of America: national institutions that adhere to American values, the cherished connection between public servants and citizens, and the protection of civil and constitutional rights of all Americans. How I long for the values and graciousness that Justice Blackmun demonstrated. My next dog, if a female, will be named Sonia. Or, should we acquire a litter, maybe Sonia, Ketanji, and Elena—women who are speaking truth to power. I miss Blackmun’s wisdom on the Court, and I miss my dogs.

With thanks to Patrick Kirwin, Manuscript Reference Librarian, Manuscript Division, Library of Congress and to Connie Cartledge, Senior Archivist, Library of Congress

Dr. Margaret L. Andersen is the Elizabeth and Edward Rosenberg Professor Emerita and Founder and Executive Director of the President’s Diversity Initiative at the University of Delaware, who resides in Oxford.

The Spy Newspapers may periodically employ the assistance of artificial intelligence (AI) to enhance the clarity and accuracy of our content.

Filed Under: Opinion, Spy Journal

Maryland Caucus Podcast with Foxwell and Corchiarino: Maryland’s Emerging Financial Perfect Storm

October 1, 2025 by Len Foxwell and Clayton Mitchell Leave a Comment

Every Wednesday, Maryland political analysts Len Foxwell and Clayton Mitchell discuss the politics and personalities of the State and region. This week, however, Len is joined by Republican Queen Anne’s County Commissioner Chris Corchiarino to fill in for Clayton while he’s away on vacation.

This week, Len and Clayton discuss the combined political impact of Marylanders losing 28,000 federal jobs due to the Trump administration’s cost-cutting initiatives and an additional 5,000 to 10,000 workers out of work after today’s government shutdown at the same time the State anticpates a $3 billion shortfall in the next fiscal budget when Maryland’s Blueprint for Excellence public education plan will be requirign another $3 billion investment. They also share their “hot takes” for the week.

This video is approximately 13 minutes in length.

The Spy Newspapers may periodically employ the assistance of artificial intelligence (AI) to enhance the clarity and accuracy of our content.

Filed Under: Maryland Caucus, Spy Highlights, Spy Journal

Mark Dion and Alexis Rockman: Journey to Nature’s Underworld

September 27, 2025 by Anke Van Wagenberg Leave a Comment

 

Mark Dion (1961) and Alexis Rockman (1962), American Landscape, 2022, Mixed-media diorama with taxidermy, found objects, and painted background, 96 x 192 x 87 in.. Courtesy of the artists

Such an honor to attend the opening (Sep 11, 2025) of Mark Dion and Alexis Rockman: Journey to Nature’s Underworld, at the Palmer Museum of Art at Penn State, University Park, PA. A beautiful installation of this AFA-organized exhibition! The first two-person exhibition of these celebrated artists, Mark Dion and Alexis Rockman: Journey to Nature’s Underworld explores their shared allegiances and sustaining friendship over a period of three decades. Dion and Rockman were among the earliest artists to address, and even anticipate, the epic ecological problems. Together, they have embarked on tropical expeditions; published dialogues; and co-edited the pioneering 1996 book Concrete Jungle, on anthropogenic ecosystems.

The exhibition will beget a voyage of discovery through various pressing subjects, with the artists’ works serving as enticing guides. Beginning with a section evoking the fieldwork of pioneering naturalists and explorers, visitors will encounter field-station tableaux by Dion alongside Rockman’s paintings of fauna and dramatic terrains, often with cross-sectioned views. Ensuing works will address such themes as invasive and endangered species, beleaguered aquatic environments, anthropogenic landscapes, and future scenarios evincing effects of climate change and waning biodiversity. An exhibition highlight will be the debut of a grand sculptural diorama, titled American Landscape, created especially for the tour and marking an unprecedented collaboration between Dion and Rockman.

This zoological group portrait, set on a golf course, will feature a cast of scrappy species that, according to the artists, successfully “exploit niches and opportunities generated by a human-transformed landscape” representing “the future global ecosystem.” The exhibition will also include a selection of related drawings and prints by both Dion and Rockman. In addition, participating museums will have the option of developing, along with the artists, an adjunct “Chamber of Wonders” display, conceived as a flexible cabinet of curiosities intended to inspire both awe and concern about the natural world.

The collaborative work American Landscape was created for the exhibition and commissioned by the American Federation of Arts.

On view from August 23 to December 7, 2025, at the Palmer Museum of Art at Penn State, University Park, PA. Organized by the American Federation of Arts, and after The Bruce, VAMoCA, The Tang, and The Lowe, this is the last museum partner in this successful tour.

Anke Van Wagenberg, PhD, is an art historian and serves as Senior Curator & Head of International Collaborations at the American Federation of Arts in New York, NY. She resides in Talbot County. 

The Spy Newspapers may periodically employ the assistance of artificial intelligence (AI) to enhance the clarity and accuracy of our content.

Filed Under: 1A Arts Lead, Spy Journal

From and Fuller: Should Democrats Allow a Government Shutdown and a Pending Comey Indictment

September 25, 2025 by Al From and Craig Fuller Leave a Comment

Every Thursday, the Spy hosts a conversation with Al From and Craig Fuller on the most topical political news of the moment.

This week, From and Fuller discuss how the Democratic Party should navigate the current federal government shutdown negotiations, as the Trump administration vows to cut the federal workforce if an impasse occurs. Al and Craig also weigh in on the Department of Justice’s plans to indict former FBI director James Comey.

This audio podcast is approximately sixteen minutes in length.

Background

While the Spy’s public affairs mission has always been hyper-local, it has never limited us from covering national, or even international issues, that impact the communities we serve. With that in mind, we were delighted that Al From and Craig Fuller, both highly respected Washington insiders, have agreed to a new Spy video project called “The Analysis of From and Fuller” over the next year.

The Spy and our region are very lucky to have such an accomplished duo volunteer for this experiment. While one is a devoted Democrat and the other a lifetime Republican, both had long careers that sought out the middle ground of the American political spectrum.

Al From, the genius behind the Democratic Leadership Council’s moderate agenda which would eventually lead to the election of Bill Clinton, has never compromised from this middle-of-the-road philosophy. This did not go unnoticed in a party that was moving quickly to the left in the 1980s. Including progressive Howard Dean saying that From’s DLC was the Republican wing of the Democratic Party.

From’s boss, Bill Clinton, had a different perspective. He said it would be hard to think of a single American citizen who, as a private citizen, has had a more positive impact on the progress of American life in the last 25 years than Al From.”

Al now lives in Annapolis and spends his semi-retirement as a board member of the Medill School of Journalism at Northwestern University (his alma mater) and authoring New Democrats and the Return to Power. He also is an adjunct faculty member at Johns Hopkins’ Krieger School and recently agreed to serve on the Annapolis Spy’s Board of Visitors. He is the author of “New Democrats and the Return to Power.”

For Craig Fuller, his moderation in the Republican party was a rare phenomenon. With deep roots in California’s GOP culture of centralism, Fuller, starting with a long history with Ronald Reagan, leading to his appointment as Reagan’s cabinet secretary at the White House, and later as George Bush’s chief-of-staff and presidential campaign manager was known for his instincts to find the middle ground. Even more noted was his reputation of being a nice guy in Washington, a rare characteristic for a successful tenure in the White House.

Craig has called Easton his permanent home for the last eight years, where he now chairs the board of the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum and is a former board member of the Academy Art Museum and Benedictine.  He also serves on the Spy’s Board of Visitors and writes an e-newsletter available by clicking on DECADE SEVEN.

With their rich experience and long history of friendship, now joined by their love of the Chesapeake Bay, they have agreed through the magic of Zoom, to talk inside politics and policy with the Spy every Thursday.

The Spy Newspapers may periodically employ the assistance of artificial intelligence (AI) to enhance the clarity and accuracy of our content.

Filed Under: Spy Highlights, Spy Journal

Food Friday: Hello, Breakfasts!

September 5, 2025 by Jean Sanders Leave a Comment

Let us take a page from Christmas. Don’t panic – we still have a few months to go before we start worrying about that! But summer vacation is over. And school has started. What are you going to serve for breakfast on a busy Monday morning?

I suggest that a little of the planning, just like holiday prep can be applied to our everyday, real life breakfast experience. So easy to natter on about, so difficult to to sustain. Which is why it is a good thing that Christmas comes but once a year. Point of fact, on Christmas morning, we wander groggily into the kitchen, where we always have a couple of favorite breakfast casseroles pre-cooked and sitting in the fridge, waiting to be re-heated. And while you might not want to prepare a casserole or a sheet of sausage rolls every night, you don’t need to panic every single morning about breakfast, now that school is starting, the busses are rolling, and time is not on your side.

You can start off small, with a batch of Scrambled Egg Muffins, courtesy of Food52 that you can bake on Sunday afternoon. Easy peasy, lemon squeezy. By Thursday you’ll feel confident enough to toss frozen, homemade pancakes into the microwave. (Emily Peck on Slate’s Money podcast recently extolled the deliciousness of the Lemon Ricotta Pancakes from a recipe in the New York Times – enjoy! Lemon Ricotta Pancakes On Friday you’ll enjoy revving up the blender for a healthy, avocado smoothie. You can make a new playlist for every week, or get some items into a regular rotation.

It will be almost a full year before you will again enjoy leisurely summer vacation breakfasts, spent contentedly scrolling through IG at a picnic table overlooking a lake from your summer rental. You won’t be tasked with documenting the perfect sunrise to humblebrag about any more, either. You are back in the saddle, like it or not. And some of you have young folk who need to be stoked up and filled to the brim with healthy brain food every morning.

There’s a lot going on in those growing brains, and we know that we should be doing better than a bowl of Cap’n Crunch. We want them to concentrate, remember what they are learning, and keep their energy levels up until lunchtime. It is a daunting task, particularly when we are trying to feed everyone good, healthy food, fast and with the fewest morning squabbles.

A lot of the prepared foods are full of sugars, fat and salt; all the deelish things we human beings are naturally drawn to. But they are not very healthy for us, I’m sad to say. And look at that fourth grader, staring moodily at you across the counter. Does he really want a bowl of heart-healthy oatmeal. Not likely. So consider your audience as you peruse my handy dandy sheet of breakfast ideas.

I love repetition. I can eat a turkey sandwich every day for a week. Maybe even two weeks. But you might be a little more normal, and like to shake things up. When you bake a sheet of twelve muffins, that might seem like money in the bank. But only for a couple of days. Don’t plan on foisting off healthy crunchy twiggy muffins on your first grader for the next 5 days in a row. Even if they really seems to like them on Monday, by Tuesday it could get ugly. Maybe you can consult with said child, and see what their take is, and maybe the two of you can make a plan. Rapid rotation is probably key!

Most mornings I have about enough energy and enthusiasm for a slice of cold pizza and the headlines. But given the proper motivation (this list) and a calming trip to the grocery store, even you can have a variety of healthy ingredients on hand to make some tempting make-ahead, back-to-back breakfasts. And then you can devote your worrying to charging the iPhones, signing permission slips, finding the sneakers, getting the laundry out of the dryer, putting the dog in his crate, and finding your car keys.

Maybe the two (or three, four, five) of you can make it a weekly family event. Quality Family Breakfast Prep Time might only last for the first couple of weeks of school before it comes crashing back down on your shoulders, but it could be a pleasant time for you all. Instead of sinking onto the sofa with HGTV after dinner, maybe you can whip up a little batch of granola – which can then be a cereal base, an ingredient in a yogurt parfait, or tossed into a smoothie or made into snack bars.

I have some great memories of times in the kitchen with our children. You can’t expect every minute to go smoothly, and you have to keep in mind that their attention spans can be short (it’s a lasting effect from all that Cap’n Crunch they used to eat). Consider it a moment of triumph when someone learns to measure a cup of whole wheat flour, or remembers to line the muffin pan with paper cups without first being asked. You can teach some life skills, like how to bake bacon, or wash blueberries or peel carrots. And don’t forget about learning first aid!

You are saving time from chaos and tears in the morning, and exercising those potentially sizable and vulnerable little brains. And it is screen-free quality time. Maybe after you figure breakfast out you can all go read a little Harry Potter. Magic!

Muffins
smoothies
eggs
granola and muesli
oatmeal
pancakes
fruits
pizza
bagels and breads

Muffins

Smoothies

Eggs

Granola and Muesli

Oatmeal

Pancakes, waffles

Fruits


Pizza (I had to include it!)

Bagels

“My breakfast is usually a wholegrain cereal or porridge, with walnuts sprinkled in it, berries, a tablespoon of honey, and chia seeds. I have coffee and a little cherry juice with seltzer. I have a seat by the window, and I look out at the view.”
—Amy Tan


Jean Dixon Sanders has been a painter and graphic designer for the past thirty years. A graduate of Washington College, where she majored in fine art, Jean started her work in design with the Literary House lecture program. The illustrations she contributes to the Spies are done with watercolor, colored pencil and ink.

The Spy Newspapers may periodically employ the assistance of artificial intelligence (AI) to enhance the clarity and accuracy of our content.

Filed Under: 1 Homepage Slider, Food Friday, Spy Journal

Looking at the Masters: Spain in the Golden Age – Granada’s Alhambra

September 4, 2025 by Beverly Hall Smith Leave a Comment

Alhambra (1238-1492)

During the Golden Age of Spain, from 711 until 1492, Muslims ruled Al-Andalus from Cordoba to Toledo and Seville to Granada. The Nasrid Kingdom of Granada (1238-1492) was the last independent Muslim kingdom in Spain. Prior to the Nasrid rule, the Vizier of Granada was Samuel ha-Nagid (933-1056), a Jewish scholar, statesman, poet, military commander during wartime, and leader of the Jewish community. He built his palace and gardens on the Sabika Hill where the Alhambra now stands. On December 30, 1066, in one of the only pogroms carried out by the Muslims against the Jews, Samuel’s palace was stormed and destroyed, and he was killed.  Muhammad I founded the Emirate of Granada in 1238, initiating a period of prosperity and culture. Refugees who fled from the north during the Spanish Reconquista created an even more diverse and tolerant population. The Alhambra, the new palace built on the Sabika Hill by the Nasrid dynasty, was surrendered on January 2, 1492, by Boabdil, the last Emir of Granada, to the Catholic monarchs Isabella I and Ferdinand II.

The Arabic word Alhambra means red or vermillion castle. It was given the name because of the clay containing iron used in the construction of the mile of walls that surround the 35-acre fortress and castles. The wall has 30 towers and four main gates. The main gate (1348), the south entrance, was named the Gate of Justice. The steep ramp with a ninety-degree turn permitted defense on either side. The sculpture of a hand, the five fingers symbolic of the Five Pillars of Islam, is above the gate. The Palace del Partal Alto (1273-1309) is the oldest of the palaces on the Hill. It is now a private residence. The Comares Palace and Tower and Hall of the Ambassadors were part of the expansion during the years 1314 until 1345. The Comares Palace is the center of the Nasrid palace complex. Next to it is the Mexuar, the administrative center where audiences were held, the council met, and records were kept.

Hall of the Ambassadors

The Hall of the Ambassadors was square, 37 feet on each side, and 75 feet tall. All the walls contain three arched doors that lead to rooms and balconies. The stucco carvings include the usual Muslim themes, and the inscriptions are taken from poems and the Koran. Many of the inscriptions call for Allah to save the people from the devil: “My help from the wrath of God and from all the devil who allows the breaking of hell; and free me from the evil of the envious when he is ready to envy. And there is no other living divinity than that of God whom I must praise eternally. The praise of the God of the centuries.”

The center niche on the wall to the right contained the throne. On March 31, 1492, the Alhambra Decree (Edict of Expulsion) was signed by Isabel and Ferdinand in the Hall of Ambassadors. Jews had until July 31, 1492, to either convert to Catholicism or leave Spain. Don Isaac Abravenel, a Portuguese Jew and respected councilor and financier who funded the voyage of Columbus to the new world, and Abraham Seneours, a Sephardic rabbi and senior member of the Castile government, plead not to sign the document to no avail.  Abravenel emigrated and Seneours converted.  The humanitarian crisis was enormous.  Thousands of Jews went into exile. 

Hall of the Ambassadors Ceiling

From the square room of Earth to the circular dome of Heaven, the Hall of the Ambassadors was constructed with the finest materials and technology the Muslims had developed. The ceiling was constructed of 8017 interlinked pieces of cedar wood and embedded with lapis lazuli to represent the Seven Heavens of Islamic Paradise. The dead are transported to one of the Seven Heavens

based upon their respective virtues. Lapis Lazuli, deep blue in color, is a semi-precious stone deemed sacred since ancient times. Its name comes from the Persian word lazward (gem) and the word azure (blue) from several languages.

Plan of the Alhambra

The Alhambra covers 35 acres on the Sabika Hill. The Citadel/Fortress can be seen at the left. The Moorish palace of the Nasrids is at the center top of the plan. The Hall of the Ambassadors, marked #2, projects beyond the Courtyard of the Myrtles, the center of the palace. The Courtyard of the Lions is marked #3. Two small rooms just behind the courtyard are the Hall of Abencerrojes, marked #4, and the Hall of the Two Sisters, marked #5. The other buildings were constructed after1492 by the Catholic rulers. This image is cropped, but the gardens, called Generalife, continue in all directions.

Patio de los Arrayanes (Courtyard of the Myrtles) (1314-1325)

Patio de los Arrayanes (Courtyard of the Myrtles) (1314-1325) was built by Isma’il I, fifth Nasrid sultan, and modified by his successors. The courtyard contains a reflecting pool that is140 feet long and 74 feet wide. Its name comes from the hedges of myrtle trees that were planted on both sides of the pool. Myrtles trees had white flowers and a sweet fragrance. For Jews, myrtles are one of the four plants used to build temporary huts, called sukkah, to celebrate God’s protection during their 40 years of wandering after the Exodus. For Christians, myrtles represent the promise of restoration and a blessing, their fragrance a divine favor. The Comares tower can be seen at the end of the courtyard. The pool was designed so that no movement of the water would alter the reflection of the tower. The horseshoe arches are decorated with stucco carvings.

Tile and Trees of Life

The tiled wall at the end of the courtyard represents the wide variety of Islamic geometric patterns. On top of the tile are continuous stucco carvings including Tree of Life designs. The Koran mentions the Tree of Immortality from which Adam was forbidden to eat the fruit. Although the image is used frequently, it does not have a specific religious meaning. The branches extending from a central core represent personal spiritual growth and development and the proliferation of the faith.

Patio of the Lions (1362)

Mohammad V built the Patio of the Lions in 1362. Located on the east side of the Comares Palace, the courtyard is 116 feet long and 66 feet wide. It is surrounded by 124 white marble columns.  The famous dodecagon (12-sided) fountain with its twelve white marble lions sits at the center.  The rooms off the courtyard were the private quarters of the royal family and harem.

Lions Fountain

The lions represent the twelve tribes of Israel from the Torah (Old Testament). They were a gift to Mohammad V from the Jews. Water flowed from the center of the fountain and out the mouths of the lions. The inscription around the rim of the basin is a poem by Ibn Zamrak (1333-1393), an Andalusian Arab. His poetry can be found in many places in the Alhambra. The text of the poem describes the beautiful fountain, the strength of lions, and the hydraulic system and how it worked. 

 

Hall of Two Sisters

Sultan Mohammed V built The Hall of Two Sisters to serve as the residence of his wife and the royal family. The two large slabs of marble that form part of the floor inspired the name. No part of the wall and ceiling is undecorated, and the muqarnas ceiling is considered one of the finest examples of Nasrid architecture. The base of the dome appears to be hanging lace. 

Hall of Two Sisters Dome

The dome is eight-sided with sixteen windows.  It is constructed with over 5000 small wedge-shaped wooden muqarnas that form 16 lacey domes and the central flower shape. A simpler form of muqarnas was used in the construction of the Great Mosque of Cordoba, and elaborated over time by Muslim architects until they achieved this form.

Hall of Two Sisters Ceiling Muqarnas

Here the muqarnas were painted white. Turquoise, amber, and gold paint was used to create the intricate surface detail 

Hall of the Abencerrages

The Hall of the Abencerrages (sons of the saddler) is another example of elegant Nasrid architecture. Abu al-Hasan Ali, who ruled from 1464 until 1485, suspected one of the Abencerrages knights was having an affair with his favorite slave, who became his wife. He invited 30 chiefs of the Abencerrages to a banquet in the Hall, and he had them all beheaded. The heads were piled in the fountain. The stain remains on the floor where the fountain water ran red. 

Hall of the Abencerrages Dome

The eight-pointed star design contains 16 windows. The dome rises above the windows.

Model of Muqarnas

The muqarnas structure is a complex mathematical development which the Muslims used most successfully.

Generalife

The extensive gardens that surround the palaces are known as the Generalife. The name is Arabic, Jannat al-arifa. Jannat means paradise. Water channels, walkways, stairs, fountains, trees, flowers, fruits, and vegetables abound. Artistry and intellect are combined. The sights and smells of the garden create a sense of paradise.  A passage in the Koran 2:25 describes “gardens, underneath which running waters flow…”

Washington Irving lived in one of the Alhambra apartments for three months. A plaque marks his apartment.  He wrote Tales of the Alhambra (1832), a collection of essays that brought international recognition to the Alhambra. When he first arrived in Grenada, he described it as, “a most picturesque and beautiful city, situated in one of the loveliest landscapes that I have ever seen.” After his stay he said, “How unworthy is my scribbling of the place.”

 

Crest of the Nasrids (1013-1492)


Beverly Hall Smith was a professor of art history for 40 years. Since retiring to Chestertown with her husband Kurt in 2014, she has taught art history classes at WC-ALL and the Institute of Adult Learning, Centreville. An artist, she sometimes exhibits work at River Arts. She also paints sets for the Garfield Theater in Chestertown.

The Spy Newspapers may periodically employ the assistance of artificial intelligence (AI) to enhance the clarity and accuracy of our content.

Filed Under: Looking at the Masters, Spy Journal

Food Friday: Goodbye, Summer!

August 29, 2025 by Jean Sanders Leave a Comment

Mr. Sanders, Luke the wonder dog, and I have snuck out for the Labor Day weekend. We hope you have an excellent weekend of grilling, fireflies and backyard enjoyments.

Ah, the mixed feelings that arrive with Labor Day: regrets for not having gone to the beach often enough; relief that the sand-strewn car no longer needs to be vacuumed with regularity. Rueful that cooking is moving indoors; cheered that this will be the last can of mosquito repellent we use this year. Hasta la vista, homemade, hand-cranked-by-kid-power-ice cream; hello, sweet treats whipped up in the kitchen.

In theory, the summer has seasonal experiences that we can’t enjoy during the rest of the year. Oh, yes, we could go to the beach every day if we didn’t have middle-class concerns, like holding down jobs to pay the mortgage. And yes, the beach is a fine place to visit in the fall, with sweaters and scarves and a feeling of adventure. But nothing is quite so delightful as sitting in a low-slung beach chair, with your toes wriggling in the sand, as the tide creeps up the beach while the afternoon sun warms your soul, and you munch happily on a tuna sandwich, and you never remember to turn the page in your paperback.

Conversely, I am still hauling the little hand-held vacuum out to the car to suck up yet another drift of sand that has suddenly appeared from some hidden car crevasse from that trip to the beach two weeks ago. Thank goodness we emptied out the cooler. Two week-old tuna sandwiches would be toxic.

I love grilling on the back porch, as you know, because I do very little of it myself. I think Mr. Sanders is a marvelous grill master, and I encourage him to practice his talents often. Which isn’t to say he won’t rustle up a ceremonial steak or flip the odd burger in the winter months, but it is not a given. I like certainty. I like not having to clean the cooktop every night. During grilling season I enjoy standing on the back porch while Mr. Friday flips and times and prods our dinners. We have a little wine, and hold our breath while the hummingbirds zoom into the twilight, changing places with the fireflies, who begin to sparkle. Which signals, alas, the arrival of the mosquito cloud. Not even the swooping bats have made much of an impact on the damn mosquitoes this year.

Summer desserts are simple delights that you can enjoy year ‘round. But homemade ice cream is best consumed before it is ready, scraped off the paddles, while it is still soft, and the sugar granules haven’t quite dissolved. It is always sweetest when the youngsters are cranking the ice cream maker. We have an electric ice cream maker that we have used once. It seemed like a good idea at the time – but strawberries and peaches bought in February are never as sweet as they are right now, overflowing at the farmers’ markets, luscious and ripe fruits in brilliant oranges, golds and reds.

I suggest we remember summer in other ways. A coconut pie in October will cast our memory nets back to sun screen and lotions from the beach or pool. A delightful profiterole, dripping in chocolate and oozing vanilla ice cream in November will harken back to back porch-churned vanilla ice cream. And this lemon custard is summer sunshine in a bowl. Hello, fall!

This is a recipe from The New York Times.

No-Bake Lemon Custards
By Melissa Clark

INGREDIENTS

FOR THE CUSTARDS:
2 cups heavy cream
⅔ cup granulated sugar
2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest (from 1 to 2 lemons)
Pinch of fine sea salt
⅓ cup fresh lemon juice (from 2 to 3 lemons)
FOR THE STRAWBERRY TOPPING:
1 cup sliced strawberries
1 to 2 teaspoons granulated sugar
Freshly ground black pepper, for serving

PREPARATION
In a medium saucepan, combine cream, sugar, lemon zest and salt over medium-high heat. Bring to simmer, stirring frequently to dissolve sugar. Simmer vigorously until mixture thickens slightly, about 4 to 5 minutes.
Remove from heat and stir in lemon juice. Let sit until mixture has cooled slightly and a skin forms on top, about 20 minutes.
Stir mixture, then strain through fine-mesh strainer (I used a cheesecloth) into a measuring cup with a spout; discard zest. Pour mixture evenly into six 6-ounce ramekins or small bowls.
Refrigerate, uncovered, until set, at least 3 hours.
As the custards chill, prepare the strawberry topping: Toss strawberries and sugar in a small mixing bowl. Let fruit macerate at room temperature for 30 minutes to 1 hour, until the sugar is dissolved.
To serve, top each lemon custard with some strawberry topping and grind black pepper on top.

Personal note: when I made this, I do not get 6 ramekins of custard. Instead, because the liquid reduces, I got 3 small bowls of custard. So do not attempt this recipe if you are serving a crowd. But it is a heavenly and light distillation of bright sunshine. Something to file away for a gloomy day in February, when you need a little hope.

“The crickets felt it was their duty to warn everybody that summertime cannot last for ever. Even on the most beautiful days in the whole year – the days when summer is changing into autumn – the crickets spread the rumor of sadness and change.”

― E.B. White


Jean Dixon Sanders has been a painter and graphic designer for the past thirty years. A graduate of Washington College, where she majored in fine art, Jean started her work in design with the Literary House lecture program. The illustrations she contributes to the Spies are done with watercolor, colored pencil and ink.

The Spy Newspapers may periodically employ the assistance of artificial intelligence (AI) to enhance the clarity and accuracy of our content.

Filed Under: 1 Homepage Slider, Food Friday, Spy Journal

Looking at the Masters: Spain in the Golden Age – Seville

August 28, 2025 by Beverly Hall Smith Leave a Comment

Giralda, Seville (1184-1198)

A significant component of a mosque is its minaret, the tower from which the muezzin calls the faithful to prayer five times each day. The minaret of the Great Mosque of Cordoba (951-952) was 177 feet tall. It was entirely enclosed in 1593 when it was converted to the bell tower of the cathedral. The Giralda (minaret) of the mosque in Seville was built over a period of years from 1184 until 1198, during the reign of the Almohad dynasty. It was 343 feet tall and 45 feet square. The minaret remained unchanged when the mosque was rebuilt in 1434, during its conversion to a Gothic-style cathedral. The minaret was constructed from local brick, along with stone taken from nearby walls, a palace, and the remains of a Roman city. The tower contains 35 ramps. The outer decoration is designed to match the ramps. The middle section of the tower has the most windows to let in light. Two blind arcades were placed on either side. Ninety-two columns were topped with marble capitals. The Giralda remains the tallest structure in Seville, and it has become a symbol of the city.

 

Three stages of the Giraldo design

The drawing at the left is a depiction of the original design (1198) of the Almohad tower. The drawing at the right is a depiction of the bells and the cross that were added after the building was declared to be a Catholic Cathedral in 1400.  The cast bronze female figure carrying a spear and shield in the center drawing was added in 1568. This rotating sculpture is 13 feet tall and functions as a weathervane. It was called Giraldillo, the Spanish word meaning to turn. The inscription is from Proverbs 18: “The name of the Lord is a fortified tower.”  Sometime during the 16th Century, people noticed the tower acted as a sundial, casting its shadow on the pavement below. Giralda was registered as a World Heritage Site in 1987 by UNESCO. 

The Caliphs of the capital cities of Al-Andalus, Cordoba, Toledo, Seville, and Granada, all had fortified castles called Alcazars. The Alcazar of Cordoba, near the Great Mosque, was restructured starting in 1236 when Christian’s took over the city. Today the Alcazar of los Reyes Christianos is surrounded by lush gardens. A sculpture of Isabella and Ferdinand with Columbus recognizes that their first meeting was at this Alcazar. Toledo’s Alcazar is on the highest hill. 

 

Porta del Leon

The Real Alcazar of Seville and the Alhambra of Granada are outstanding examples of Muslim architecture. Real Alcazar Seville (1150-1492), like all fortified castles was built over the original Roman fortress. In 1150 Seville became the new capital of Al-Andalus under the Almohad Caliph, and the fortress was called Al-Mubarak (The Blessed). The fortification was extended to include six palaces, and later to create nine. In 1163 the Alcazar became the official residence of Caliph Abu Ya’qub Yusaf, who expanded the structure, tearing down many of the existing palaces and building twelve more. This pattern of renovations over hundreds of years is typical.

The Porta del Leon was the main entrance into what was the 11th Century Almohad palace Al-Mubarak. The 28-foot-high defense wall has two large towers and a battlement with saw-tooth merlons across the top. The tile mural depicts a lion wearing a crown, holding a crucifix, and standing on a spear. At the corners, keys are held together by a gold cord.  The inscription on the banner “Ready for everything” was taken from Virgil’s Aeneid. The lion mosaic tile, historically as accurate as possible, was made in 1892. The gate has been called the Porta del Leon from then on. It was renovated c.1939 following the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939).

 

Patio de la Monteria (Courtyard of the Hunt) (1364)

From 1350 until his death in 1369, Pedro I of Castile ruled in Seville. He decided to build a new Alcazar in 1364, with the entrance to his palace across the Patio de la Monteria which was opposite of the Porta del Leon. Porta de la Monteria (Hunting Gate), led into the courtyard where hunting parties gathered. Pedro was raised in an era of religious tolerance and had a strong relationship with the Jews and the exiled Nasrid sultan Muhammad V of Granada. Muhammad gladly sent skilled Muslim craftsman to build the place. As a result, the Alcazar of Seville and the Alhambra of Granada are the greatest example of Mudejar architecture. 

The first level of the entrance door to the Palace has two multi-lobed blind arcades decorated with carved vegetable and geometric patterns known as sebka.  These patterns had been developed in Muslim art over the centuries and by the 14th century had become extraordinary in the detail and variations. The window level was created to reflect both the lobed arches and tall pointed arches blending Muslim and Gothic styles. The blue and white Kufic inscription above the windows celebrates the building’s creator: “The highest, noblest and most powerful conqueror, Don Pedro, by God’s grace the King of Castile and León, ordered the construction of these Alcázares, and these palaces, and these façades, completed in the year 1402.”  “There is no victor but Allah” also is inscribed on the façade.

The Casa de la Contratacion (House of Trade for the Americas), on the right, was constructed at the direction of Isabella of Castile in1503. The founding of America on October 12, 1492, had brought a boom in trade to Spain. The Casa de la Contractacion was established for the merchants, admirals, and those who regulated the booming trade. The Alcazar is located on the Guadalquivir River. Seville became the major center of trade for Spain.

Patio Doncellas (Patio of Maidens) (1356-66)

Patio Doncellas (Patio of Maidens) (1356-66) was the center courtyard of Pedro’s palace. The official life of the court took place there. Pedro’s love of Mudjedar design is evident. The long reflecting pool is surrounded by gardens originally filled with orange trees. The large arches in the middle of each side lead into various reception rooms with stairs to the upper story. The lower arches are multi-lobed while the upper story arches are round in the style of Catholic churches in the Renaissance. The courtyard was covered over sometime between 1581 to 1584 with white and black marble pavement. Between 2002 and 2005, the hidden courtyard was discovered and found to be in good condition. The original garden was restored. 

The name “Patio of Maidens” was drawn from a 1360 Muslim story about the tribute of 100 maidens to be paid annually to the Caliphs from the Christian kingdoms of Spain. The truth of this story is questionable.

 

Ceramic Tile

This ceramic tile was used in the decoration of the Patio of the Maidens. Exquisite Muslim arabesques, geometric, leafy and floral designs, and texts were applied to ceramic wall tiles. This type of wall decoration became popular in Seville and Granada.  Seville became a center for the lustreware ceramic pottery in the 11th Century.  The Muslims brought the process to Al-Andalus. Seville was the major shipping center for Islamic ceramics that became popular in Europe. The fusion of the Islamic and Gothic styles became popular with royalty and the church. Commissions bearing their choice of subject came in from Italy, France, and other European countries.  Muslim pottery techniques were further developed in Europe. An example is Italian Majolica.

 

Salon de los Embajadores (Hall of the Ambassadors) (1366-69)

The Hall of the Ambassadors (1366-69) is entered from the Patio of the Maidens. The hall served as King Pedro’s throne room, the most lavish room in the palace and meant to impress. The room is square in the Islamic Qubba design and represents Earth. The ceiling represents the dome of Heaven. Triple horseshoe arches with marble columns and gold capitals line the four walls. A decorative rectangular frame is set within a large arch, with three blind arches. Another rectangle frames the entrance. The lower walls are covered with geometric ceramic tiles topped by border designs and large rectangles decorated with carved plaster work. Rows of tile and plaster work and blind arcades link the walls. The top level was redesigned in 1526 to include wrought iron balconies. The frieze containing portraits of Spanish monarchs was painted by Diego de Esquivel in 1599.  

 

Dome of Salon de los Embajadores (1427)

The original dome was replaced in 1427. The new dome was created by Islamic architects who found a means to successfully turn the flat square ceiling into a rounded dome. When assembled, the carved wood sections (muquarnas) projected from the flat surface of the wall reaching to a central circle. The muquarnas were then covered with gold. The Hall of the Ambassadors is considered to be one of the best examples of Mudjedar architecture. 

 

Sala de Audiences (Chapterhouse and Hall of Trade)

Near the Hall of the Ambassadors is The Hall of Trade. It contains the Alejo Fernandez painting “The Virgin of the Navigators” (1535). The opening of trade with the Americas by Catholic Spain was of major significance and celebrated in this painting. The Virgin Mary descends from Heaven, high above the ships at sea. Her cloak shelters royals and navigators including Christopher Columbus, Amerigo Vespucci, Ferdinand II of Aragon, and Carlos V. Four side panels contain depictions of Saint Sebastian with a sword and a bow and arrow (top left), Saint James the Moor-Slayer on a white horse (bottom left), patron saint of sailors St Elmo holding a ship (top right), and Saint John the Evangelist with a book, pen, and eagle (bottom right). Seville Cathedral is the final resting place of Christopher Columbus.

In addition to the interior courtyards and patios, the Real Alcazar contained many gardens: the Garden of Poets, the Garden of Dance, and the kitchen gardens. The Garden Levi was dedicated to King Pedro’s Jewish councilor and treasurer. Pools, ponds, water channels, fountains, and water spouts were created to provide beautiful settings with relaxing sounds. Planted with 200,000 plants representing 187 species, the gardens reflect the Quran’s description of Paradise.

The final article in this series is the Alhambra in Granada.

 

NOTE: Seville remains a city of orange trees. They grow on every street. The fruit is a special bitter orange that is used in cooking, specifically for making marmalade. Jars are labeled Sevillian Marmalade. 


Beverly Hall Smith was a professor of art history for 40 years. Since retiring to Chestertown with her husband Kurt in 2014, she has taught art history classes at WC-ALL and the Institute of Adult Learning, Centreville. An artist, she sometimes exhibits work at River Arts. She also paints sets for the Garfield Theater in Chestertown.

The Spy Newspapers may periodically employ the assistance of artificial intelligence (AI) to enhance the clarity and accuracy of our content.

Filed Under: Looking at the Masters, Spy Journal

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